The chain is therefore after the gearbox the first thing the power of the engine has to endure and since a large part of motorcycles are relatively powerful and the drivers also like to use them, the chain has a very responsible task.
What should one have claims for his chain?
Sure, first of all, you should be sure that she does not break.
If a chain breaks, it’s good if you just have to call the towing service, but in the majority of cases, the chain will not simply sing and quietly abdicate but will get rid of a furious rant.
For example, my CRF450R has a welded engine block. I could buy them cheap after my previous owner broke the chain and the 50Ps he just used to drive now revealed their potential to destroy the engine.
But even that is luck in misfortune, after all, it could have been his leg that is torn by the chain.
Also, the chain is, of course, responsible for a certain amount of loss management.
As is known, a little power is lost from the crankshaft in the engine to the rear wheel. This happens everywhere where the engine power is converted, usually by friction in heat. The chain makes up a large part of this, so the available power depends on the quality, the type and the condition of the chain.
Also, the chain is driven mass and the less the engine has to move it the faster it can turn up. A light chain makes it a bit more lively.
There are so many chains, but how are they different?
The market is full of offers for chains with confusing names. In good shops but you can easily see in the description with what you have to do it.
First, the length (number of links), this depends on the particular motorcycle and its distance from the engine sprocket to chainring on the rear wheel, as well as their scope.
Original translated you can just stick to the manufacturer’s specification, but if you want to translate a larger chainring to shorter, for example, so that a little top speed for sacrifice is sacrificed you sometimes need a longer chain.
The width of the chain is also specified by the manufacturer but can be exchanged in principle in connection with pinion and chainring.
In racing, for example, is often exchanged from a 525er chain to a 520er as this is narrower and thus lighter. Of course, you have to make sure that the thinner chain is at least as strong as the originals.
The load capacity depends on production. A heavy-duty chain is, of course, more expensive than a weak chain for the same width. The load capacity is given in tensile strength in KG.
The type of seal is crucial to the longevity of the chain.
There are chains without seal, with O-ring, X-ring and then there are other names for these seals for reasons.
The type of seal is a lot of marketing, which is why I do not want to go down that much. O and X stands for the shape of the small rubber seals. These prevent penetration of undesirable substances into the interior of the chain.
In general, this has a positive effect on the service life and the lubrication intervals, but it also brings with it additional weight and a higher power loss.
When and how do I wait for my chain?
In principle, a chain should always be kept as clean as possible because dirt leads to faster wear and higher friction, so it should always be well oiled, so it is also protected against rust.
The maintenance intervals depend so much on the use. It is also important never to combine a worn chain with a good pinion or vice versa!
This increases the risk of total failure and the good part will be garbage extremely quickly.
This pinion was driven only for one day. The chain was at the time but already totally at the end.
Features a serviceable chain:
-Or too much or little tension. Also, the correct chain tension and escape (refer to the motorcycle manual) affects the life and performance of the chain. By the way, too tight a chain can also prevent the proper work of the strut.
The chain should be changed as soon as it can not be moved smoothly even after cleaning or if it is unevenly lengthened. Even if it is generally already very stiff or has damage such as missing chain rollers.
Sometimes you also notice that the chain is simply already so has a lot of play and can also move a lot in the radial direction. Even then, a new chain should be mounted.
On the left the auspicious chain vs. right the still relatively new chain.
When and how do I change the chain?
Since there is no meaningful information about when a chain should be exchanged as a precaution, you have to rely on his experience. With attentive consideration, the symptoms described above can be seen quite early on, as long as the chain still participates.
If the day has now come and you decide to assemble a new chain, the first question is usually whether to use a chain lock for clipping or riveting. Since I am personally a great friend of the solution with the clips I have made an illustrated guide below.
In preparation, I recommend gloves and a stand-in which the rear wheel floats free. Then you look for the old chain lock. Turn it so that it lies on the chainring and open it by pushing the spring plate forward. The easiest way is with a water pump pliers. In a conventional chain, you have to flex the rivet head.
Attention! The sparks can damage your paint now, the new chain is created in the next tooth to the old and connected from behind through the chain lock. If you pull now on the old chain, you pull the new effortlessly and without further dismantling parts through. Once completely pulled through one must only still loosen the chain lock again, the two ends of the new chain merge (this goes with pulling something taut) and now connect again from behind with the chain lock. The plate is now placed on the chain lock (sharp edge inwards) and finally pushed the spring plate with its opener against the direction of rotation of the chain in the bolt until it snaps into the correct position.