Test report: BRAKING Wave brake discs

Meanwhile, you can get almost everything in tins – lacquer, cleaner, chain grease, sausages up to whole cheeseburgers. But I digress… and already in the first line.

Brake cleaner – who would have thought it?

Oh yes, the good old brake cleaner. Everybody has heard of it and most people use it for all sorts of things. But what can’t be cleaned with brake cleaner? Attention, shockingly your brake callipers!

Brake cleaner is a very aggressive cleaner. It can clog the seals on the pistons of your brake calliper and lead to leaks sooner or later. And who needs a leaking brake?

On any other occasion where grease or stubborn dirt has to be removed, the brake cleaner is usually the product of choice. As long as there are no sensitive rubber parts nearby, of course.

MotoX-treme Wonder Foam

The miracle foam cleans. And that well. It has several advantages: as it is a foam, it adheres very well to surfaces. It is therefore ideally suited for soaking something – classically dead flies. It also cleans without leaving streaks.

My product of choice for a quick cleaning in between. Whether it’s the helmet and visor, the motorcycle on an evening at the race track or just the camping table after dinner. With all these tasks the MotoX-treme miracle foam shines (pun, cough). Besides, the large 600ml can last quite long. Maybe also important for some: my 2K matt paint doesn’t find the cleaner stupid and doesn’t get an unwanted shine!

AFAM Powerclean Chain Cleaner

The care of my necklace is very important to me. After every track day or race weekend, the chain is cleaned. Because dirt particles are the enemy of all parts that are in motion. More dirt > more friction > more wear.

To clean my chain I use the Powerclean chain cleaner from AFAM. The use is very easy: Turn the wheel, spray the cleaner on the chain, let it work for five to ten minutes, spray it again lightly and rinse it off with water. To improve cleaning, it is advisable to use a brush or brush besides. Then the chain is clean again. To dry the chain finally, you can simply let the engine run and turn the bike with the gear engaged. The remaining water will be thrown off.

Then you can wipe the chain dry with a soft cloth. The engine should then, of course, be off! This is not a guide to lose your finger!


Now we have a clean chain. But of course, it wants to be protected from further use. The chain spray mentioned above is a great help.

I have been using the SILKOLENE Pro Chain since this year. It surprised me very positively. If used correctly and dried for the appropriate time, it is virtually spin-free and produces a flawless, resistant smear layer. Also, the penetration to the O-, X- or whatever rings in the chain is top.

I can’t tell you much about the durability, because I spray every evening at the race track anyway. Usually, this is not necessary… but you know the thing with the good conscience The durability of the can is also outstanding. In a year with 13 race days, I needed about half a can.

As an alternative for road drivers, I can also recommend the Profi Dry Lube chain spray. Since it is dry lubrication it is free of spin-offs. Disadvantages are that it should be sprayed every 300km and it is not waterproof.

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